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If you replaced the power tubes AND the rectifier, the rectifier is still sparking, and your room's light dim when you turn on the amp ( indicating the mains voltage is dropping due to excessive current, so it looks like a dead short ) I would check for dead shorts in the rectifier/filter caps area and the +B rail, like a bad solder joint, a solder joint touching the chassis somewhere, a bent socket lug or shorted filter caps. If your OT reads OK you can proceed as follows:
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Unlike SS amps, tube amps should never work without a load connected.īTW I wouldn't measure DC resistance with a diode tester, which does not measure resistance, but rather gives a diode's forward voltage reading. Should all the output jacks be shorted?Hi sdre,Īre you sure your output jacks are shorted? OT's secondary windings have a pretty small DC resistance.so.do you have a dead short ( bad, indicating a possibly fried OT, though this is a rare event ) or a very low resistance ( normal )? Are you measuring with a jack plug or straight on the sockets? I' m asking this because some output sockets short the signal to GND when a jack plug is not inserted, to prevent the amp from working with the OT secondary open and the output tubes from arcing. I tried pulling out the power tubes and the sparking still occurred. the power amp tubes are the second set this week that I purchased for it as well. Its the second rectifier tube I bought for it. When it happens the lights in my room dim. Sparking- illuminating bluish/purple colors.